Trickery on the Inca Trail
5:22:00 PM
This occurred on the fourth and final day of the Inca Trail Trek to Machu Picchu:
I’ll give you a little background first: The Inca Trail is an amazing trek but there is one disadvantage: you can’t come into Machu Picchu too early. The reason for this is that you have to pass a government check point that opens at 5:30am and then from there it’s an hour hike (average) to reach the Sun Gate which is at the top of Machu Picchu, and about another 30 minutes to get down to the ruins. It’s an absolutely majestic way to enter the site, but tough if you’re trying to get to Wayna Picchu. Wayna is the mountain on the right of all the standard MP photos and from what I’ve been told, a must climb when you’re there. Well, for WP they only allow 400 people total (200 from 7-10 and 10-1) and people (who spend the night or take the early train) run to fill up the spots as soon as the park opens at 6am usually taking all available tickets by 7-8am. You can begin to see my predicament now.
Well, I was adamant about making it up to WP and my guide advised me how it would be done and that once we got past the check point I would have to run as much as I could. Even though I was exhausted from three prior days of hiking and carrying my giant backpack, I took on the challenge and got myself pumped. The doors opened and I was off! Only problem was that the path was narrow and after 5 minutes of booking it, I got stuck behind other groups that were walking. Everyone was in a hurry to get to the site and all of a sudden manners and compassion for others got thrown out the window (mob Disneyland mentality) – nobody would let me through! Finally I ran past a few, and then got stuck again. I had the idea to pretend I was a porter to get past people, but no one would have bought it since they all separated from our trail the night before.
I was getting anxious and the guy in front of me looked back and then graciously let me through. Then he told his wife in front of me that a “guide” was coming through and to let me through.
I bite my tongue and run past her. Mind you that I have on an alpaca Peruvian beanie, a tourist walking stick, and a big backpacker pack on my back. In his defense it was still dark so I was hard to identify - just a sweaty brown man running by...
Well the person in front of her was a pain and blocked me like no other with body and walking stick. After a good 5 minutes I hear the wife in a whiney voice ask him how he knew I was a guide (I’m still directly in front of her). He responds some smart ass comment like “the frogs told me.”
It’s starting to be twilight and I can’t get past the person in front of me. She then asks in my direction, (in gringa Spanish), “excuse me, are you a guide?”
In perfect Spanish and without turning around I respond, “Of course.”
She seemed somewhat pleased by this and gave me an, “Oh, OK”
About 10 more minutes went by and I still couldn’t get past this persistent roadblock in front of me. It’s starting to get lighter out.
I hear some huffing and puffing behind me. I then hear that nagging, high pitched voice, (in gringa Spanish), “so, are you going to pass anyone else…??”
I don’t understand why people really care so much sometimes. Aren’t there lines for the cafeteria or a handball game being cut into that she should be policing?
Of course, I don’t miss the opportunity and loudly respond, “Yes, of course. Once I am given the opportunity to go through, I will catch up to my group.” (subtle, eh?)
I jumped at the opportunity provided by my exponentially growing annoyance with my surroundings, that comment, and the still semi-darkness outside and loudly said, “perdon!” (excuse me) and jumped past the person in front of me.
I then literally ran past that group of people yelling the words “perdon” and “guia” (guide).
After similar trickery to get past more groups of these people, some subtle hints to let me through (banging my stick on the ground directly behind someone and loud coughs), and much running, sweating, and climbing like a monkey I victoriously and ruthlessly made it to WP at 7am with 25 spots left.
My victorious entrance into Machu Picchu. The mountain on the right is Wayna Picchu.
Me victoriously atop Wayna Picchu. Worth it all.
I’ll give you a little background first: The Inca Trail is an amazing trek but there is one disadvantage: you can’t come into Machu Picchu too early. The reason for this is that you have to pass a government check point that opens at 5:30am and then from there it’s an hour hike (average) to reach the Sun Gate which is at the top of Machu Picchu, and about another 30 minutes to get down to the ruins. It’s an absolutely majestic way to enter the site, but tough if you’re trying to get to Wayna Picchu. Wayna is the mountain on the right of all the standard MP photos and from what I’ve been told, a must climb when you’re there. Well, for WP they only allow 400 people total (200 from 7-10 and 10-1) and people (who spend the night or take the early train) run to fill up the spots as soon as the park opens at 6am usually taking all available tickets by 7-8am. You can begin to see my predicament now.
Well, I was adamant about making it up to WP and my guide advised me how it would be done and that once we got past the check point I would have to run as much as I could. Even though I was exhausted from three prior days of hiking and carrying my giant backpack, I took on the challenge and got myself pumped. The doors opened and I was off! Only problem was that the path was narrow and after 5 minutes of booking it, I got stuck behind other groups that were walking. Everyone was in a hurry to get to the site and all of a sudden manners and compassion for others got thrown out the window (mob Disneyland mentality) – nobody would let me through! Finally I ran past a few, and then got stuck again. I had the idea to pretend I was a porter to get past people, but no one would have bought it since they all separated from our trail the night before.
I was getting anxious and the guy in front of me looked back and then graciously let me through. Then he told his wife in front of me that a “guide” was coming through and to let me through.
I bite my tongue and run past her. Mind you that I have on an alpaca Peruvian beanie, a tourist walking stick, and a big backpacker pack on my back. In his defense it was still dark so I was hard to identify - just a sweaty brown man running by...
Well the person in front of her was a pain and blocked me like no other with body and walking stick. After a good 5 minutes I hear the wife in a whiney voice ask him how he knew I was a guide (I’m still directly in front of her). He responds some smart ass comment like “the frogs told me.”
It’s starting to be twilight and I can’t get past the person in front of me. She then asks in my direction, (in gringa Spanish), “excuse me, are you a guide?”
In perfect Spanish and without turning around I respond, “Of course.”
She seemed somewhat pleased by this and gave me an, “Oh, OK”
About 10 more minutes went by and I still couldn’t get past this persistent roadblock in front of me. It’s starting to get lighter out.
I hear some huffing and puffing behind me. I then hear that nagging, high pitched voice, (in gringa Spanish), “so, are you going to pass anyone else…??”
I don’t understand why people really care so much sometimes. Aren’t there lines for the cafeteria or a handball game being cut into that she should be policing?
Of course, I don’t miss the opportunity and loudly respond, “Yes, of course. Once I am given the opportunity to go through, I will catch up to my group.” (subtle, eh?)
I jumped at the opportunity provided by my exponentially growing annoyance with my surroundings, that comment, and the still semi-darkness outside and loudly said, “perdon!” (excuse me) and jumped past the person in front of me.
I then literally ran past that group of people yelling the words “perdon” and “guia” (guide).
After similar trickery to get past more groups of these people, some subtle hints to let me through (banging my stick on the ground directly behind someone and loud coughs), and much running, sweating, and climbing like a monkey I victoriously and ruthlessly made it to WP at 7am with 25 spots left.
My victorious entrance into Machu Picchu. The mountain on the right is Wayna Picchu.
Me victoriously atop Wayna Picchu. Worth it all.
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andreas, you are as cunning and determined as this lady we both know! i'm enjoying your perceptive and hilarioius comments and even got to try your grappa last night (just did a post on our blog)!
cheers,
cara (it's been a long time--maybe 10 years?!)